Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Monday, August 27, 2012

Into fashion history: the 1910's and Lucile!

In my opinion, fashion can tell so much about a civilization, generation, or era, just as an outfit can tell so much about a person.
That's why I love fashion history. Not only can it be kind of funny - they wore what at that time? - but also enlightening, especially as it concerns women's status.
Women laced up in corsets? Society was probably a little repressive.
Women starting to wear jeans and trousers? Women are becoming better able to actually move around in their clothes, making them more active participants in society! It also means that they're starting to push against societal boundaries, aka the "women wear dresses" ideal that lasted for so many centuries.
Women wearing simple, utilitarian clothes with shorter hems? Hey, it might be World War II where women replaced the men in factories, therefore needing clothes they could work in, not fancy materials, and the hemlines were a little shorter because they needed to ration materials!

All to say, I find fashion history so interesting. In this post, we're going to talk about...
*drumroll*
The 1910's and Lucile! 
(And the Titanic era, because who can ignore Titanic when talking about the 1910's?)



A little blog background: do you guys remember when I wrote a review about The Time-Travelling Fashionista by Bianca Turetsky? Well, the vintage dress Louise is transported back to 1912 in is by none other than Lucile!

                                                                                   Source: pinsndls.com via Laura on Pinterest


The reason I wanted to feature Lucile for my first fashion history series, particularly this week? Well, I know many people are preparing for fashion week, and guess who we partly have to thank for that? Lucile! She was credited with being the first designer to showcase her designs on a runway, and the first to show her designs on models and photograph them! I guess we also have Lucile to thank for  fashion blogging?
(I'll post a clip of a Lucile runway show at the end, it's so cool!) 

A little background on Lucile:

                                                                 Source: vogue.com via Laura on Pinterest



Designed by Lucy, Lady Duff-Gordon, Lucile clothing was very popular from the turn of the 20th century until the 1920s. Lucy herself had a pretty controversial life - she was on one of the few Titanic lifeboats that managed to escape, and there was a huge scandal over rumours going around saying that her and her husband bribed the crew to let them on. Also, according to Vogue, she went on to design outfits for the Ziegfeld Follies!




Most notably, though, Lucile made fabulous evening dresses.
Check out this flapper dress!




Other super fabulous evening dresses from the first 2 decades of the 20th century:



Source: google.co.uk via Laura on Pinterest





Edwardian fashion is very interesting because it was very much a transitional time for fashion. Some dresses, especially ones from the first decade of the 20th century, look very much like Victorian fashion (which officially lasted until 1901, at the passing of Queen Victoria.) This means that corsets were still popular, and dresses that had bigger skirts were still popular. However, looser sports clothes were becoming more common, and more column-style dresses were starting to become more common. These column dresses would lead to the looseness of the flapper dress in the 20s. The early 20th century was very much rooted in the Victorian Age but also looking forward to the excitement of the 20s, making it an "in-between" fashion era.




Lucile was also greatly inspired by the exotic, especially the orient:


And check out those pajamas? I don't know about you, but I'd LOVE to sleep in those!



And I don't know whether this source is right or not, but imagine if it is: how cool is the idea of a fashion designer being a suffragette?! Apparently, the reason this dress is green, white, and violet, is that the three colours stand for Give Women the Vote! (Seriously, how cool is that? Thanks for the tidbit, Ye Old Fashion!)



Here's the video I was talking about. It shows a part of the evolution of women's dress over 15 years, and I think the first part of it - the 1914 fashions - are all screenings of Lucile shows! Cool, no?

 

Sooooo, what did you think? Interesting? Visually appealing? Was the fun fact about fashion shows being credited to Lucile your favourite part? How about the rumour that the green, white, and violet dress stood for giving women the vote? I think that may have been my favourite part since elections are happening on my side of the pond, and I'm always grateful for the ability to vote even if most of the candidates are kind of, well, bleh.

What I want to know, though, is what you guys thought of the fashion history aspect of this post. I enjoyed writing it so much! If you'd like more of it, maybe fill out the poll about what era you'd like to learn about next?
Or, leave me a comment answering the poll or saying which designer history you're interested in!


Let me know what you think! I've never made a poll before, eek! (You can also fill out the almost identical one on the main page of the blog, whatever you prefer!)

XO,
Laura

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

My Thoughts on The Fashion File by Janie Bryant and Monica Corcoran Harel. (Hint: I loved it!)

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Lately, I seem to be reading a lot about fashion, makeup, and style, and how to apply it to your life in the best way. This can be either from books, such as Maria Menounos' The Everygirl's Guide To Life, (which was actually pretty good, maybe I'll review that, too...), or from magazines, such as this month's Vogue, which I don't read very often, but, c'mon, Adele was on it.

I must say, though, that the most fun and interesting "guide" I've read so far is The Fashion File, by Mad Men's costume designer (and award-winning costume designer) Janie Bryant, and fashion expert, writer, and reporter, Monica Corcoran Harel. For those of you who live under a rock (kidding), Mad Men is a television show about people working in ad agencies on Madison Avenue in the 1960's, and their families and lives. The Fashion File revolves a lot around the show, but even someone who hasn't seen the show but likes its fashion can immerse themselves in the book - whenever Janie uses the book as a point of reference, she generally provides a picture or illustration to help out.

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What I liked about The Fashion File:
I'm a very visual person and I love fashion illustration and coffee table books, so this book was a dream. The illustrations are nothing short of gorgeous. They were drawn by Robert Best, who was on season 3 of Project Runway and worked on an Isaac Mizrahi movie.
The book is divided into chapters with names such as "You as a Leading Lady", "Defining Your Silhouette and Secrets for Dressing Your Shape", and "The Dressing Room". One of the things I liked most, however, is that no matter what advice Janie gives, she always says that what makes you feel beautiful and confident is the best thing to wear, and says a few times that, although she believes the advice she gives is good and has been tried and tested, they're just guidelines, not hard "rules", which I appreciated. She also says that loving yourself and being able to gracefully accept compliments without acting too modestly is just as important - they help with the confidence, and I'm completely behind that!
I also loved that she didn't endorse buying new clothes all the time to keep up with trends, or with any kind of designer buying - she definitely encourages shopping your closet and keeping an open mind in order to put together new outfits all the time with the help of a few quintessential closet items and a few fun accessories. I especially loved the section "Seven variations on the little black dress" for showing different ways to accessorize a black dress to make it look completely different.

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Janie also has some really good advice, seriously. She recommends mood boards, but not only one for inspiration, but one for each persona you want to communicate through your style. Want to dress up rocker style in all black, a leather jacket, and crazy hair? Make a mood board! Want to channel old Hollywood glamour? Make a mood board!
She also gives the advice of keeping a kind of style bible or fashion journal - kind of like a food journal, but you write down what you wore and what made you feel best so that you can remember that outfit should you ever be in a rush to figure out an outfit that looks good on you! You can even add in pictures, if you want. I know I've started mine, and it's helped!

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Overall, Janie gives advice to determine, at the beginning of the book, the basics about yourself style-wise: what colours would be best on you, what shapes, the role of colour in your wardrobe, skincare, undergarment-fitting, makeup, and refining your look. I found this extremely helpful - the basics she presented weren't too complicated that I wasn't sure which one I was, and she gave really great advice for every body shape, colour combination, and more.

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I also love that she included "Checklists" at the end of every chapter. They're essentially summaries of the chapter put down into a few (pretty and well-written) bullet points. As much as The Fashion File is extremely well-written, it can be hard to remember all the advice, points, and ideas Janie puts out there amidst all the pretty illustrations, so the checklists are helpful.

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One of my favourite parts, however? The vintage chapter! Seriously, it's amazing. She covers every decade from the 20's until the 80's, has interesting facts about each decade, but also has ways to incorporate those looks into your own wardrobe.

A few of my favourite illustrations from the vintage chapter (they're so detailed!):

The 1920's section
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The 50's section
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The 60's section
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And the 80's section
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I loved that a lot about Mad Men, as a show, was included, but I love even more that a lot of information about the costume designing process and fitting process was also included. I'm interested in it, so it was a real treat to read about a day in the costume designer's life - it's inspiring to see how much work Janie's put into making the show more believable through tiny outfit details!

The last, albeit unexpected, part that I liked? The last section, which focused on men! I have to admit I wasn't expecting it at all, but I found it really interesting considering I know very little about men's fashions. She even includes guides on different ways to knot ties and bow ties and how to shop for suits, which is extremely useful for you and your guy. I loved the emphasis on a man dressing up, since I love a man in a suit ;).

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The (very few) things I didn't like were more on a personal level:
Janie mentions that, unlike Coco Chanel, who advised woman to glance at herself one more time in the mirror before leaving and taking off an accessory, you should glance in the mirror before leaving, but then add on one more accessory. Throughout the entire book, she really advocates on wearing lots of accessories, which is nice, for sure - a lot of emphasis is placed on accessories with sentimental value, and experimenting is great - but a mention that wearing huge earrings, on top of lots of necklaces, and a belt, and an arm of bangles and cuffs can be a bit much, especially for petite women like myself. It's not a rule or anything, but although accessories are fun, a mention that sometimes even no accessory is needed if you're, for example, really trying to make a statement with the outfit you're wearing.

One more thing I didn't like which is really a personal matter is that she didn't include Audrey Hepburn in her "old Hollywood glamour list of inspiration". I just would've included her because she's inspired me so much, though I can understand that she may not influence everyone as much as, say, Rita Hayworth has. I was also surprised Marilyn Monroe wasn't on there since she was mentioned several times throughout the book.

So, as you can see, there's not much wrong with the book, at least in my opinion.

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Have you read The Fashion File? If you have, what did you think of it? Have you read other style and fashion books based on a movie or television show that you can recommend?




XO,
Laura

Disclaimer: I wasn't paid or compensated to mention anything here, it is my own content and my own ideas. The book links are Amazon affiliated, and by clicking on the links/buying the linked product I will profit, but I still choose which products I want to talk about and believe in.
All photos in this post belong to Janie Bryant, Monica Corcoran Harel, and Robert Best. No infringement intended, they were used simply for demonstrative and admiration purposes.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Fashion inspiration (or, well, situation) of the day

(Click on the thumbnails because the pictures are too big and I unfortunately don't have time to resize both right now...)
HA! YOU CAN RESIZE ON PHOTOBUCKET, AWESOME!

What I'd like to be doing (ignoring the fact that she's in Paris, no big deal):

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(From the May 2010 issue of Elle China)


What I am doing, but in shlumpy clothes, not pretty lingerie:

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(From the October 2010 Vogue Italia Beauty issue)

I can't wait until exams are over!
xo,
Laura